The Journal

Field notes & travel guides

Practical planning guides and stories from the guides, camps and communities we work with.

Sep 13, 2026

Great Migration Month by Month: Where the Herds Actually Are

The Great Migration has no timetable. Herds track rainfall and grass quality, so months shift year to year. Typically: calving on the southern Serengeti and Ndutu short-grass plains December–March, Grumeti crossings May–July, Mara River crossings July–October, and a southward return November–December. Crossings are unscheduled events — budget three to four nights near a river to have a realistic chance.

Sep 13, 2026

Kenya vs Tanzania for a First Safari

For a first safari of a week or less, Kenya is usually easier: shorter transfers, more varied parks and cheaper access. Tanzania suits travellers with ten days or more who want the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and fewer vehicles. Cost is closer than most comparisons admit once park fees are read properly; neither is reliably cheaper.

Sep 13, 2026

Masai Mara vs Serengeti: An Honest Comparison

They are one ecosystem split by a border. Choose the Masai Mara for compact, high-density game viewing and July to October river crossings on short trips. Choose the Serengeti for scale, lower entry fees and a year-round migration. The Mara costs more per day and is more crowded; the Serengeti demands more time.

Sep 13, 2026

Serengeti vs Ngorongoro: Which Should You Choose?

Choose Ngorongoro Crater for guaranteed density in a single day: Big Five including black rhino inside roughly 260 km2. Choose the Serengeti for space, variety and the wildebeest migration across 14,763 km2. Most northern-circuit itineraries include both, because they answer different questions. Ngorongoro is one day; the Serengeti needs three.